Wednesday, November 3, 2010

You have the tools to work in cultivating/gardening, so...you...work in the garden?

Wow! Anyone else surprised that it is November already? Well, as you can tell from the title, one of the hardest aspect of cultural integration that I have found to date is that I am a woman in a man's world doing some rigorous labor. Please, note however, that many times it is not the opposite sex completely left dumbfounded by this idea of me toiling over the dirt, but instead, my not-always-so-empowering fellow women cohorts that are completely astounded to see me starting my compost pile and digging out the beds in my garden space that are insulting, but sometimes do raise good questions (which requires me to take a breath and use it as a teaching moment). For me, this is difficult because unlike other women volunteers trying to make it in the male-dominant powerhouse of this region (and let's face it to much extent the world) I am almost nearly surrounded by the women at my site all day with hardly any males in my presence. So, unlike the difficulties of other PCVs trying to make themselves heard and respected in the view of their male counterparts I am spending most of my time trying to get the understanding and a level of approval from the women that I am attempting to integrate into their daily lives. Recently, upon encountering many of my fellow volunteers (mostly women in this part of my region) we were able to share some of stories and hardships over the past month and one case in particular stands out in my mind. In short, this PCVs story is that she is married and lives en brusse (out in the bush) with her husband. She desires to work and truly just be addressed in her field and to be acknowledged, as she is well-educated and has a level of fluency in French, which can be found spoken by nationals here. However, since her husband is generally found with her in village it is he who gets their attention and ear (EVEN though he hardly understands much of conversational French at all). Needless to say, she seems to spend much of her time trying work with her husband to blur the lines of gender norms for both the men and women. The women villagers seem to take her desire to work with the men to mean that she considers her status as above that of women nationals, and they have made sure to point out her true place is "over there" with the other women. Either way, we are both constantly hounded with questions always beginning the same way, "Can you...?". Can you shovel? Can you handle going over this road? Can you manage to continue greeting? Can you weed? Whatever it is I suppose it is just plain amazing that we, as the lazy white race perhaps, can (actually more like will) perform these tasks almost daily. Of course, usually once we do they laugh and then tell us to go sit down in the shade or when the unfortunate instance occurs that we cannot accomplish a basic chore (or perhaps just not as easily--since many times they have been doing it since they could walk, whereas we have never had to) then they claim we must be tired/just do not understand what we are supposed to do.

On a different note, I have found that working in my kitchen creates a great sense of personal accomplishment and independence that I crave daily in my life. Thus far, I have baked pizza, brownies, cookie cake, apple crisp and a sweet potato casserole all to share with my host family (btw: my homologue/host mom/jatigi is a Keita too! Bonus!) who have flipped over backwards and enjoy watching, and of course, the eating process as well. I have some fun pics up on FB where everyone was introduced to the Fruit Roll-Up candy Stickerz! (my sister had sent some in a package with a pic of her and mom with some on their faces) and had a blast one hot, lazy afternoon sticking them on each others' faces. I have been working on my garden plot and continually adding to my house. For instance, I have recently purchased a full tea set so that I can host guests and serve them rounds of tea (I have had several visitors already!). I have killed tons of crickets, ants and flies within my home; found one dead scorpion and have disected one with a shovel; and, spotted two rodents around the kitchen area.

Currently, my main goals have been interviewing/integrating/greeting the locals and trying to get a better grasp on the history and existing projects, as well as, work the community would invest in fully in the future. Again, after coming together and sharing our various village experiences I find though that drama seems to pop up occasionally it is just the norm. A short compilation of events, would include; drunk teachers, attempted rape of village chief's third wife, being almost forced to leave village and asking others what help they need, having two language tutors instead of just the one (who is not sure what of he is even doing, but again it seems like many don't), and the question being raised about getting a new jatigi (host fam). Crazy, random incidents just are every day events and I am just trying to reflect on them without losing my mind and control in the process.

Well, I guess I should be heading back to site and the reality of living in the beauty of the middle of nowhere! Please, feel free to leave comments, questions and spread the word to everyone of the link. I miss you all and would love to hear from each you!

Sunday, August 29, 2010

I live with Namaka Keita...yeah, it's the house with the carousel and hot tub jacuzzi ;)

So, as you can tell internet service is a) not readily available and b) not truly reliable. In fact, I am relishing in the fact that at 6 in the afternoon I have been able to check gmail, facebook and write on my blog! I am not sure where to start to catch up! First of all, as is the truth with all my other host families in the past my homestay host family is truly wonderful!! My nine weeks living with them were truly an integral part of formation as a volunteer. Not only did they take me in as a member of their family practically from day one, but they completely spoiled me in everyway! It was so great that while every other fellow trainee would complain about living conditions, language barriers, food and general issues with their families I would almost always have to scrounge for any true problems. That is why my friends in homestay, fellow environment volunteers, would joke that I lived in a mansion with the carousel out front and the hot tub jacuzzi! They provided me with language support, cultural misunderstandings and just general involvement in their lives. I quickly became friends with the oldest son, Gawsu. We would go on bike rides to nearby villages, go out to the fields, play games and even went fishing. They quickly gave me a husband, Banjuku (age 3!) and he and Bangike latched on to me as well giving me more support! Women around my age would come and go every week working or staying with the family and they were great friends too! I shared gifts with them and I would get cookies, cheese (Laughing Cow) and fruit treats as well. We went to the market together, cooked together and went to the tailor to get outfits made for me. My host mom was a great support helping me throughout the time by being so comforting (actually gave a hug and a kiss on separate occasions!) and proud of my skills and lessons learned. As I have left homestay for good I will truly miss all of them and plan on visiting them often!

I will report on site soon. And, as I am swearing in this Friday, will not be contacting more than a couple of times for the next 3 months as I am to stay and integrate in the village only leaving twice for market/banking needs!

Until later--allah ka nogon nogoyake!

Friday, July 23, 2010

Two weeks of homestay...

I am safe and well in Tubaniso! We have just returned from our homestay's and are here for some general sessions on health, safety, food security, sustainable development and our sector/language courses. I have had an amazing couple of weeks in Kobalakoro! It is a larger village of about 2,000+ people and there is a market (which usually denotes larger city/town). It also means that there is less space between living concessions and trash and sewer waste in the roads. Though there are beautiful rock formations and a canal that we bike to often. Generally, we spend eight hours a day in language class (most of us are learning Bambara, however, another volunteer is learning the minority language-Bomo). When we are not learning the language there is study of the culture. We have discussed the respect shown to elders and social events here in Mali. Besides that we have had different sessions in garden planning, tree nurseries, seed transplanting and composting.

My host family is absolutely wonderful! They are understanding and caring of me--the only thing I am afraid of is that I am unaware of all the crazy "American" habits I have that bewilder them. There is Namaka Keyta and his wife Aisatu that are 88 and ?? (upon asking ages of the family no one was able to tell me her's lol!), then their sons Kalife, Umar and Sulu live in the concession--with their wives (Sulu is 30--? also a joke--and still single) Myamona and Aisatan. Also living in our concession are their six children (in order of oldest to youngest--ranging from 16-3) Gawsu/Levie, Aisatan, Aisatu, Karamoko, Bangike and Banjuku. However, shortly after my arrival Aisatan left to stay with her aunt in Bamako and now Fanta (her cousin) is staying with us. Kalife (eldest son/brother/uncle) works as a professor in Bamako, Umar works in the local clinic (as a sociologue in French--not sure of how it translates, but he has an office and drugs in a small room next to him), and I think Sulu does too. This means that I am very well off compared to most at homestay, therefore; I am spoiled, 'feel' that I have transitioned/integrated well and am not seeing some of the malnutrition, beatings, living with 100 other people in a concession and other 'typical' occurances of my fellow PCTs. This is both nice because I can feel relieved to go home at night and play with the children and speak with the adults and not feel so overwhelmed, but it also makes me worried that I am not seeing more of a realistic Malian lifestyle rountinely. However, I am sure to be exposed to that as of September 3 for the next two years and am very appreciative for the time I have to grow and learn with my host family in Kobalakoro!

Until next time!! K'an ben kofe!

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Week 1-Staging & PST (before homestay)

Greetings from Mali!

After leaving WV with very little sleep last Thursday morning I made it to my staging in Philadelphia! We stayed in the historic district and about 20 of us were able to take carriage rides around the city since many of us had never been in Philly before.

There are 80 trainees that are here at Tubaniso (training center in Mali). So, as you can guess we're constantly split and ice breakers are tricky, so for the first few days we went around meeting new people at every turn. The excitement and anxiety had not hit me before leaving home. It was the items I had neglected packing or the luggage I chose that were my first concerns. Everyone else had packed large hiking packs, while all my luggage is on wheels (but, I have made it all the way so far--in fact, I was the first female to have all my luggage arrive on the carosel in Bamako!). Items like body wash, manuals and chargers for techie stuff were forgotten as well. Even when landing in Paris CDG I did not really believe that we had left the country. It was just like, "Why is everyone speaking French?". Of course, for the first time since Mike has been CD, we were two hrs. behind our arrival time. This put us arriving at our site around 12 AM to stumble around in the dark with our bags and discovering the nygdins and sallygagas (cement houses with shower heads and holes in the floor to squat over & watering cans to splash ourselves clean). The huts are tight, but we have cots with mosquito nets, fan, outlet and light (all luxories).

Basically, it truly reminds me of any of the summer camps I have attended. The heat of day, classes, assemblies (scheduled sunrise to set) and an exhausting amount of highs and lows with 79 other people packed into 4 or 5 days. Our sessions have ranged from topics, such as, bike instruction to malaria talks (presented with an rendition of "Disturbia"-Rihanna to "Malaria"). We have discussed culture, stereotypes, overviews of our sectors and many other concerns for health physically and mentally.

It has been so jam packed that we all feel that we have been here much longer than just 3 days. But, we did leave our camp for an afternoon in Bamako's own American Club to celebrate the 4th with volleyball, swimming, burgers and beer. We hardly needed any of this since it was just our first full day, however, I did appreciate the swimming pool! However, tomorrow we get our first real look at Mali as we are leaving for our homestays for about the next 2 weeks taking classes and beginning our first attempts to integrate into the culture. This is really exciting because I feel being here that we have not really been able to see much besides what our trainers and facilitators have described and explained to us.

Right now, we are having a cultural festival. This has been our first chance to see dancing and music, try food and buy clothes. The ambassador kicked it off with a visit. And, though we are leaving tomorrow with even less bags than we brought; between the water filter, med kit and loads of reading material for our work we have a lot more to pack.

Please, feel free once you find this blog to spread the word to everyone who wants to follow my journey (I will try to update regularly). Feel free to ask questions about any issue and I will answer as quickly as I can. Also, if anyone can let me know how to connect these updates with facebook/email addresses that I have please post how to do that too : ) I ni ce (Thank you!)

Allah ka tile here caya! ( May God give peace to your day! )